Published on 1st November 2024

The Horsham Butchery opened in the Bishopric in September, with the speciality butchers supplying local, free-range and pasture-fed meat. AAH met co-owners Gary Core and Alex Emmett to find out more…

When did you begin your journey as butchers?

Alex: We met about 16 years ago at Rawlings of Cranleigh, where we both served as apprentices. After leaving to pursue other things, we both returned to the butcher’s and as we became closer friends, discussed ideas for the future. We both had ambitions to run our own business and our vision and ethos aligned. We sat down with my brother, who became our business partner, and wrote down all the ideas that we’d formulated over many years. This gave us the courage to fulfil our ambition and open our first butcher’s shop.

What was your vision for the business?

Gary: We had ideas as to how we presented the produce and established an ethos that smashed some of the stereotypes associated with the trade. Butchery is one of the oldest professions in the world and has traditional values, but we wanted to blend these with a more contemporary approach. From the outset, we worked closely with farms, developing relationships with local producers so that we can trace the meat’s journey, from field to fork. By working with trusted suppliers with good animal welfare practices in place, we could inform our customers and serve them with the best produce. Butchers face many questions from customers and we wanted to answer them with confidence.  

Where did you open your first shop?

Alex: Our idea was to identify a market town where there would be demand for an independent butcher’s. We found an ideal unit in Dorking and everything happened quickly. When we opened in February 2016, we had a sense of imposter syndrome and it was a real baptism of fire. Although we were experienced butchers, nothing could prepare us for being business owners. There’s no handbook for it and the first few years were a rollercoaster! However, we soon settled and The Dorking Butchery was named Best New Butchery Business at the Butcher’s Shop of the Year Awards 2016 and Butcher of the Year at the Surrey Life Food & Drink Awards for two consecutive years. We have also earned Great Taste awards, including two stars for our signature burger, made with rare-breed, dry-aged beef. 

You have a distinctive uniform…

Gary: The uniform was important as we wanted to create the right image. When we started out, most butchers still wore trilby hats, but we wanted to get away from that. I had an idea of taking inspiration from the dandy style of the Teddy Boys of the 1950s, with big quiffs and collars, but we didn’t hit on the right look. It wasn’t until Alex visited New York and saw someone wearing braces and a flat cap that everything fell into place. We also wear aprons made from quality leather, which gives us a distinctive look. When we popped into Dorking town during breaks, people started to recognise us, helping us establish the brand. At around the same time, Peaky Blinders became a hugely popular show, so we earned the nickname Porky Blinders! 

You also present beef a certain way…

Gary: The presentation of our shops is important and that includes how we present ourselves and engage with customers. Our shops are very clean and welcoming and customers are less exposed to the butchery side. We present speciality meats clearly and the dates of our dry-aged beef is clearly marked. Traditionally, a butcher’s can be quite an intimidating environment, which is why some people prefer to buy from a supermarket where they don’t need to engage with anyone. We create a more welcoming space and encourage conversation where people can ask us questions about the produce or even for cooking suggestions. On our website, we describe the various cuts of beef and provide cooking tips too, so we try to help in any way we can. 

The Horsham Butchery is your third opening?

Gary: We opened a second butcher’s in Guildford in 2020 and now we’re in Horsham too, so the expansion has been gradual. We considered Horsham for our first opening in 2016, as it’s an historic market town with a good demographic. Since then, the town has changed with new developments offering an attractive option for families – including both of ours – to move into. We strolled through town on a Saturday morning and were amazed how busy it was. The Bishopric was appealing as we saw other excellent independent businesses such as Gwyn’s Bakery, Johansson’s Café and Valsa Gelato had been established and were benefiting from the footfall of John Lewis and Waitrose. So, when Apache Menswear relocated, we felt that the unit was the perfect spot for our third butcher’s. From the moment we arrived, neighbouring businesses, Horsham BID and customers have been wonderful, making us feel very welcome.

Was it always the plan to expand?

Alex: We were perfectly content with one butcher’s shop and we thought we had made it! However, we had a talented team of young butchers who were hungry to succeed, much as we were, and we wanted to offer a career pathway for them. The best way to do that was to open other shops to provide managerial roles and in turn give opportunities to young apprentices to learn a good trade and begin their own journey. There are now 20 people involved in the business and Lewis, who joined us at the beginning, now manages the Dorking branch, while a former winner of the Young Butcher of the Year title will soon manage the Horsham team. 

Are you working with local suppliers?

Alex: Traditionally, the backbone of the UK economy has been agriculture, but for many farmers, the route to market has become complicated. The pressure of supermarket quotas has seen many resort to intensive grain farming and with price becoming the dominant factor, much of this country’s produce is exported, while we buy from overseas. There is another way or working which is far better, that not only encourages regenerative farming methods to minimise environmental impacts, but also offers better-quality meat. As a nation, we produce fantastic beef and the Scottish in particular have a reputation for producing some of the best, as cattle graze in open pasture. You only need to look at a map to see how much of Sussex and Surrey is dominated by agriculture. So, we have established partnerships with some excellent local producers using regenerative methods. These include Sussex beef from Burgess Hill, lamb from Horsham, pork from Ockley, chicken from Leith Hill and traditional Scotch beef from Box Hill. 

Is local produce more expensive?

Gary: One of our local producers is a poultry farmer who provides us with superb chickens that cost about £20, rather than the £5 you might pay at a supermarket. However, they’re totally different birds. You don’t need to drain our chickens of water and the breast is plump and succulent. When you taste it, you know you’re eating good chicken!  

Alex: Cheap does not equal value and while the cost might not be paid at the till, it will be paid elsewhere, perhaps by the farmer not getting a fair deal or by the consumer in terms of the product they’re eating. As with fruit and vegetables, people don’t always appreciate the time and effort that goes into farming quality produce. While it can cost more, you help tip the scales towards  more sustainable local economy every time you buy from a local producer.  

Do you have plans for further expansion?

Alex: We will soon be taking on a new production unit which will allow us to control consistency and give us the scope to serve all three of our butcheries. Perhaps further down the line, there is the potential for us to offer a delicatessen, if space becomes available, which will provide even more employment opportunities and new partnerships with local producers.   

WORDS: Ben Morris / PHOTOS: Alan Wright

Further information: Visit the The Horsham Butchery at 9 Bishopric, Horsham, RH12 1QA or visit www.thehorshambutchery.co.uk