Published on 1 January 2023

There’s a gap in the wooden split rail fence that runs along part of Water Lane as it winds through the tiny hamlet of Buncton, in the Parish of Wiston. From this gap, a public footpath slopes down into a wooded hollow, crossing a stream before the pathway, largely concealed by crisp, frost-bitten leaves, rises between a row of trees. Only then does All Saints Church reveal itself. Surrounded by farmland in the shadow of the South Downs, this isolated church remains one of the District’s hidden gems. 

Its construction is attributed to the Benedictine monks who once lived at Sele Priory in Upper Beeding, which has long since disappeared. One study of architecture in Sussex dated the nave and chancel arch to circa 1070, making All Saints Church nearly a thousand years old. There have been alterations, of course. In the 13th century, the east wall was rebuilt, while decorative masonry arches were added prior to Reformation and some minor renovations were made in 1906. However, this ancient church, much like the picturesque countryside around it, has remained largely unchanged for generations. 

Harry Goring grew up in the parish (his family run the Wiston Estate, perhaps best known for its award-winning vineyard) and attended All Saints Church as a schoolboy. Now, as an Authorised Lay Minister, he leads most of the Sunday services. 

‘When I was young, the church was quite different,’ he recalls. ‘There was a pump organ, a small choir and even a Sunday School. But there have also been times when the congregation dwindled to a mere handful of people. They kept the church alive, although for long periods services were only held once a month. It still meant the church was being used for prayer, ensuring its continued survival. While other churches have closed to be turned into bars, playgroups or whatever else, this charming little chapel is still rattling along!’ 

COMMUNITY SPIRIT 

You might assume that we’re in the midst of one of those lean periods today, with the church drawing a single figure congregation. But you’d be wrong. Since October 2021, services have been held every Sunday and All Saints boasts a vibrant community. The pews can seat 60 comfortably (relatively, there’s no room for embroidered kneelers!) and that has more than sufficed for most of the church’s lengthy life. Yet it isn’t always enough now. More than 90 people attended the Easter service, which Harry said was ‘like a scene from a Richard Curtis movie!’ Late arrivals often find themselves having to stand in the aisle. The recent Census revealed that this is no longer a majority Christian country and that congregations are dwindling. It would seem the news has yet to reach Buncton! 

The success of this little church reflects the popularity of Chanctonbury churches under the guidance of Rector James Di Castiglione. All Saints is one of three under Chanctonbury’s umbrella, along with the Parish church of St Peter & St Paul at Ashington and St Mary’s in Washington, both of which hold two Sunday services. With his own congregations at the Parish church thriving, it was James who first approached Harry with the idea of a weekly service at Buncton. 

Harry said: ‘James asked if I would take on the leadership at All Saints. My first thought was that it was a calling from God and that I should do it. Then he added there were two non-negotiables involved in the deal! The first was that I give up my post as church warden, which I’d held for about 40 years. That was a relief in a sense, although I must confess that my colleague James Peill has always taken on the lion’s share of the work. The second condition was that services would be weekly, rather than monthly. 

Although I was unsure to begin with, I soon understood why he wanted to do this. When a congregation meets every Sunday, it creates continuity and you build a community. As a child, I’d sit in the church with my sister, back when the place was dull and dreary. I find it remarkable that I’m still here all these years later, with my wife Pip, speaking to a room full of life.’ 

MOMENTS OF PEACE 

The churches in the Chanctonbury group have a shared ethos and their services follow a similar theme (they recently began exploring the Gospel of Luke, which is set to last 18 months). However, they have their own way of presenting the Christian message. Ashington, which has a larger congregation, attracts many 

families and offers a host of youth activities. Services reflect that energy, with James known for his vibrant services featuring music, dancing and even a little flag waving. While there is music, with songs performed by Andy Piercy on acoustic guitar, Buncton has a more traditional approach. 

This suits Toby and Katie Mason, who are regulars in the congregation, with Toby often giving a reading during services. Toby said: ‘What we like about the Parish is that each of the churches has individual characteristics and it’s good to have a broad spectrum.’ 

At Buncton, there’s music and lots of chatting at the beginning and end of each service, but we also have moments of peace. When we read the Bible, we speak slowly and concisely, so that the congregation can follow every word. There’s less preaching, and we give people the space to work out for themselves what relevance the words have for them personally. One of the reasons why we like using old texts is that the words echo through the stones and fabric of this ancient building. If you think about the words deeply enough, you’ll find they’re still relevant. We share the same joys and heartache as those who prayed here 500 years ago.’ 

ANCIENT SURVIVOR 

As well as those moments of peace, the building itself has at its own allure, thanks to its idyllic setting under Chanctonbury Ring. Like many Downland churches, it is made predominantly of flint, with patches of stone rubble and masonry reflecting a millennium of repairs and alterations. A walk around the perimeter reveals interesting features, including the aforementioned blocked arches on the chancel wall, dating back to Norman times. The church has long since been stripped of anything materially valuable, but a 14th century piscina (a shallow basin for communion vessels) has survived. Most of the wall paintings in the nave have been lost, although some faded fragments remain, offering a suggestion of how glorious it must once have been. Fortunately, similar 12th century murals have survived at St Botolph’s Church in Hardham. 

The church today is Grade I listed, a status granted to buildings of ‘exceptional interest.’ But as with any building with such history, it requires constant upkeep. Andrew White, Head of Operations at Chanctonbury Church, said: ‘Like most ancient churches, Buncton needs its roof repaired. Legend has it that the monks from the priory found hot springs on this site and took it as a sign from God to build a Chapel. That same moisture has caused drainage problems ever since!’ 

‘The roof is centuries old and sometimes after high winds or heavy rain, we need to patch up leaks. We do what we can, although what is really required is a full roof repair, with the Horsham Stone slabs restored and refitted, the roof relined and new guttering installed. There are ongoing conversations between the diocese, English Heritage and conservationists, but the work would cost about £200,000. We are exploring ways in which we can raise the money, but for the time being, we have to accept the odd tapping of rain on the chapel floor!’ 

ONE WORD 

For many, that’s part of the charm. ‘We love walking through the woods and seeing the seasons change,’ says Katie. ‘There’s wild garlic in spring, then the crunch of fallen acorns and leaves in autumn and frost in the winter, when it can be quite chilly in the church. Fortunately, it soon warms up when we’re all inside!’

Priest Nicky Lee, who leads the monthly Eucharist (Holy Communion), can understand the allure.  

Nicky and his wife, Cila, moved to the area in 2019, after he retired as a vicar in London. In the past two years, he has seen the church flourish. While he agrees the location holds a certain charm, he attributes its longevity to just one man. ‘In terms of what it is that draws people here, I have only one word: Jesus. Now, with a weekly service, we are building a strong community through worship. Everyone here is incredibly welcoming, with new faces made to feel part of the church straight away. It’s clear that something special is happening, not just at Buncton but across the three Chanctonbury churches.’ 

WORDS: BEN MORRIS / PHOTOS: ALAN WRIGHT 

Further information: For more information on services at Buncton, Ashington and Washington, and to watch a film of Chanctonbury Church’s 2033 vision, visit www.chanctonbury.org.uk